What is it about?
Synopsis: This research examines a type of traditional handwoven skirts from northern Thailand, with an aim to distinguish the fabrics made by the faster integrated method from those made by the traditional method. Visual and symmetry analysis is employed to inspect the fabric patterns, the design structure, and symmetries. Abstract: Since ca.1990s, there have been developments in the weaving process for making “tin chok” fabrics in Long district, Phrae province, northern Thailand, with an aim to reduce the production time and increase the production capacity with respect to poverty alleviation and cultural revitalization. In this article, the symmetry patterns in “tin chok” fabrics in a collection of 17 vintage (traditional) skirts held in the Komol Antique Textile Museum, in Long district, are examined to determine how to distinguish “tin chok” fabrics woven by the integrated method from those woven by the traditional method. The research includes visual and symmetry analysis, literature review, fieldwork, and creation of a pattern booklet. This research reveals that the hem, which is one of the four parts - supplementary part one, a main part, supplementary part two, and the hem - of the detachable “tin chok”, is key to distinguish the fabrics made by the two methods. The four parts of “tin chok” made by the integrated method will always have a common vertical axis of symmetry, whereas the vertical axes of symmetry of the hem of a fabric made by the traditional method may not be aligned with the motifs in the other three parts. The frieze groups of the individual parts of the 17 vintage (traditional) skirts are decoded, and possible corresponding patterns for weaving by the integrated method are generated.